Hot hike to Coyoles

Today we went back to Villa Nueva with Luis, Rosario and Roberto to meet Don Jesus for another hike in the countryside. We were half thinking of cancelling for a few reasons: (1) It was absolutely boiling and we are winter hikers (2) Luis' schedule throws us. We aren't used to hiking all day with no food and then eating a big meal after 4pm (3) We had a horrible experience with ticks last time.... Nevertheless, we had arranged this weeks ago and it is a great way to see the real Mexico - when will we next get the chance?

The locals must think we are pretty comical. We get kitted out in hardcore Swiss hiking boots, Montbell hats, Craghoppers wicking shirts, Gelert waterproof backpacks, factor 40 sunblock, insect repellent, water, snacks and so on. Don Jesus sticks on a cowboy hat and grabs his machete and he's ready. What a difference! We were dying from the heat and downing loads of water. Don Jesus claimed he wasn't thirsty. We stopped a couple of times to chat to people we passed (who thought we were mad "city folk out for a walk") and to admire cactus and these little green balls which the town of Coyoles is named after. They are like mini hard coconuts but nowhere near as refreshing.

We reached the village after a 3 hour slog. The first job is for Don Jesus to make contact with the townspeople. It wasn't hard to find them as the town only had one dusty street and all the men (wearing cowboy hats) were congregated on someone's veranda. It was like something out of "The good, the bad and the ugly". Next stop was the church which was painted a beautiful blue and was nice and cool inside. The final stop was to the shop for a round of ice cool cokes. I don't think we would have made it back without the caffeine and sugar kick.

The return trip was quicker, but harder as it was even hotter. We cut some nopales (prickly pear cactus) to grill for lunch. Don Jesus' daughter had also cooked a couple of soups, a pile of tortillas and a huge batch of picadas. I don't think I have ever tasted better home cooking in my life. She is an amazing cook (and has given us an open invitation to return whenever we like!). One of the soups was made with cruceta - the long cactus that Rogrigo had taken home the other night. Before this trip, I didn't even know cactus was food and now I'm becoming an expert!

Here is a picture of the church at Coyoles. Hore pictures here: http://picasaweb.google.com/jomynard/HikeToCoyoles

Waterfalls

Paradise in Veracruz

Waterfalls

One the way back we stopped seemingly in the middle of nowhere and followed Luis on another little adventure. We ended up at some waterfalls. We walked along the waterfalls to a grassy area and natural pool the other side. It was like paradise! I’d love to spend an afternoon there some time. I think we can get the bus there from Xalapa.

Spread

We re-traced our steps back to the village where the ladies of the family had prepared a feast! An absolute table full of tasty treats: adobo spicy chicken, beans, tamales, tacos and chayotes. We talked about recipes as we sat around the family dining table. What a lovely experience! We arranged to meet again in 3 weeks time and do a hike to another village with Don Jesús. We’ll have to think of something nice to bring to the kind family. It’s difficult when you don’t have a kitchen.

Hike

Yes, Mexicans really do wear these hats. They also say arriba, andale.

The team

Don Jesus uses his machete

Don Jesus, Luis and David

Don Jesús

Me with Don Jesús and Lewis

We took a taxi to Luis & Rosalia’s house at 9am sharp and left for the country. We picked up another couple Roberto and Ophelia along the way. And off we went in Luis’ people carrier for about an hour and a half until we got to a dusty village called Villa Nueva. We asked a random stranger in a cowboy hat where we could find Don Jesús. “down there” he said smiling. Everyone smiles and waves in Villa Nueva. It must have 100 inhabitants at most and Don Jesús seems to be the head of the village with a nice, yet simple house down a lane under some tamarind trees. Chickens clucked around outside and the family came out to greet us. Don Jesús was a smiley, wiry man of about 55 and seemed very pleased to see us. Luis introduced us all. Rosalia brought in some tamales she had made that we could share later. We Don Jesús’ wife (I can’t remember her name (but we called her “Doña” out of respect), some of his grown sons and daughters and assorted grandchildren. Doña was sitting in their yard preparing vegetables that looked like peppers, but turned out to be called Chayotes. We later saw them growing everywhere and later still, sampled cooked ones. Very tasty - bit like potatoes so they were a hit with the Irishman. We didn’t stay long and Don Jesús was ready to escort us on a hike up the hill to see how the crops were irrigated. We all put on hats and tightened our hiking boots and off we went through the village. We waved and smiled at everyone. We passed lads (“Chavos”) going off to ply football and families sitting outside in the heat playing fiesta music. Not for the first time on this trip I felt like I was in a cartoon. We also saw boxes of chayotes boxed up ready to send to the United States and Canada.

We spent a few hours hiking. Don Jesús pointed out local landmarks, plants and crops and Luis talked and asked questions. We followed, just enjoying the day and feeling really lucky that we were seeing the “real” Mexico. I loved looking down on the valley at the ‘forest” of mango trees in bloom and at tiny villages with impressive churches. It was so beautiful. We didn’t speak or hear any English the entire day.

We came to a spot where a village used to be. They now call it the “hidden village” and there is nothing left. The lads went off to see what they could find of the old village while I stayed with the ladies and found out about useful things like how to make tamales and where to go to find a village that made shoes (I have to go there!). When they guys came back, we had to check them for ticks. Ticks gross me out. It’s the burrowing into skin that I can’t handle. I picked a few off David. Yuck. Don Jesús seemed to think that they weren’t dangerous, just a bit unpleasant. Nevertheless, we should check carefully when we got home

Luis

Sergio offered to introduce us to a friend of his called Luis today. Luis has travelled the world and was now back in Xalapa and retired and likes to meet foreigners. Sergio knows we like hiking and Luis organizes weekend excursions with local guides every weekend. We were keen to meet him.

Sergio said it was fine just to drop in on him so we headed down the back streets of Xalapa in search of his house. His street was blocked with a bollard, but Sergio thought it would be OK to move the bollard and go on through. David did the honours (I should have taken a picture) and down we went. His “house” turned out to be a hostel. We aren’t quite sure what the story was, but the surly youth at reception said he didn’t live there anymore so off we went to the other side of town to his new house. I was expecting another hostel, so was taken aback at the big house in an upper class neighbourhood. Luis and his wife Rosalia welcomed us in and we chatted about the upcoming day trips.

Luis has the demeanor of a man who is used to being listened to. We listened. Atentamente. Luis described the excursions as mini adventures and that you never quite know where you will end up or what will happen. He likes to go with local guides for a number of reasons. He counted them off on his fingers. Firstly, they know the best routes. Secondly, your car will be safe outside their houses. Thirdly, you can usually have a meal with them afterwards. Fourthly, you have access to water and bathrooms. Finally (which did make me feel a little alarmed), if you inadvertently stumble upon anything related to the drug trade, no one will bother you because you will be with one of the locals. That’s good then. he emphasised that the trips were "muy muy rustico". That's OK, we can do rustico.

There were excursions planned for Saturday and Sunday and we said we would join Sunday’s trip where the rough plan was to learn about how the locals of a small town irrigate their land.